mid_gen's Climbing Training - Operation Try Hard

[mid_gen]

Had a lighter week, no hangboarding, I was feeling quite tweaky in my shoulders.

Monday
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Indoor Bouldering, 1hr30

Wednesday
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Indoor Bouldering 1hr30

Friday
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Indoor Bouldering 1hr30. Comp routes

Sunday
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Indoor sport climbing 3hr. Ticked some 7a and worked 7a+

Tuesday
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Indoor bouldering 2hr. Finally sent the 7b circuit clean, felt very easy. Working on the 7c circuit, can get halfway.

 

[mid_gen]

Got totally out of the habit of tracking this over Christmas, I've still been plugging away though.

I did a few days on the Cuillin Ridge on Skye at the end of the year, plus boulder sessions.

Been bouldering indoors and out, working a 7a project (Green Traverse) at the plantation boulders, plus getting more trad mileage in.

Yesterday
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Bouldering indoors, 1hr30. Trying hard on the new blue circuit, felt really strong, finished a crimpy campus problem V6 ish.

 

[mid_gen]

Slipped out of training mode now trad climbing season is in. I've been getting in a lot of routes, up to HVS/E1, including some multipitch (Tryfan Pinnacle Rib Route, ace!) a couple weeks ago.

Seemed to have got over a finger strength hump in the last week or so, I've been doing some roof problems with small crimpy holds and while working the routes figuring out the sequence I've been messing up and cutting feet loads and still just able to campus crimps on the roof quite comfortably. Hopped on a V6/V7 overhanging crimp-fest route with crappy feet I couldn't even start a month ago, and it went first time.....weird.

Saturday I did another session redpointing a 7a sport route https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/harpur_hill_quarry-956/the_prophecy-15217 ...made some good progress, just the last crux to unlock.

Did ring ab rollouts until failure at the end of bouldering yesterday, got some aches today!

Going to do another max hang testing session this afternoon, see what the numbers say about my finger strength.

 

[mid_gen]

Well, the second half of 2022 has been a write-off. I got covid in August wiped me out for a couple of weeks, and then caused lingering heart issues for a few months. Fortunately that's mostly cleared up. My back niggle that I keep in check with exercise then started playing up which meant I missed a couple more weeks. Then just started getting back into climbing regularly again and a few weeks ago got this horrible chest infection which put me in hospital...and I'm finally just clearing that off.

I've got an ice climbing trip in January, and did a session dry-tooling at Masson Lees recently to practice. (Dry-tooling is basically climbing on rock using ice axes)....it's bloody hard work! It really showed up my lack of power endurance.

I've been stuck at the V6-ish bouldering plateau for years, it seems to be where just practicing a lot becomes not enough to progress, and you need to do some targeted training, so decided to bite the bullet and get a proper customised training plan.

I ended up buying a six-week one from Neil Gresham. Got it yesterday, 40 pages of stuff! I'll start on it at the weekend.

My benchmark tests for it are :

Two-arm deadhang on beastmaker 2000 upper slot to failure : 15 secs.
One leg bent to chest front level to failure : 7 secs.
Two arm pullups to failure : 13.

 

[Martynt74]

Man, sounds like a really rough couple of months. Hopefully you're over the worst now.

 

[mid_gen]

Man, sounds like a really rough couple of months. Hopefully you're over the worst now.

Cheers! Still feeling a bit ropey today but mustered up the motivation to start my training plan.

First two weeks are basic conditioning, core focused given my weakness there! Today was

Circuit style:
Push ups 30 seconds
Leg paddles 30 seconds
Squat thrusts 30 seconds
Dorsal raises 30 seconds
4 minutes rest
4 sets.

 

[mid_gen]

Finally shaken off this chest infection properly. Been sticking to the home workouts the last week, plus a big day in the mountains at the weekend.

Yesterday did another conditioning circuit, and a 30 minute hangboard session.

Weighed myself for the first time in a few months. 77.2kg! I've put on 5kg since I had covid in August No wonder I've been feeling weak on the climbing wall.

Going to be beasting the circuit board tonight at the climbing wall!