Re-finishing oak worktops

Soldato
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Had my kitchen in for two years now, and I need to re-oil my oak worktops and also get rid of some marks on them, I am not expecting to get rid of all of them as we like the look show its being used rather than a display piece.

I was thinking of using 80 grit to start then go to 120 and maybe 240 if I need to.

Best way or is there a better way to do it?

Thanks
 
Caporegime
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Personally I would do as you say with the sanding and progress to at least 240 grit. I use a belt sander for more aggressive sanding, if you have scrapes and marks etc., and an orbital sander for finishing.

You'll get about half of people saying use Osmo and the other half saying Danish. Personally I use Osmo Top Oil for my worktops.
 
Soldato
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I'll be doing the same soon. I have a Dewalt Random Orbit sander I've owned for a while, which I tried on a chopping board which came with our kitchen, which is the same exact wood as the worktop itself. Not saying you should or shouldn't use an orbital and I have read about using linear sanding to go with the grain, however, in my experience of using my orbital, it worked absolutely fine.
I started with about 60 or 80, then did 120 and then finished with I think a 160 or 180. I can't remember what I had on hand at the time. If using Osmo oil, the recommendation is not to sand to too fine a grit, since it will stop sufficient penetration and absorbtion into the wood. So 240 would arguably be too fine.
I was actually quite surprised by how quickly some very harsh chopping marks from knives came right out after only minutes. The same with water/black marking stains to an extent.

In terms of the product to re-finish. I couldn't decide between the raved about Osmo Polyx oil vs the Osmo Top Oil. From a read around online, it seems that the top oil is basically the same stuff, just that they have the certification for food safe on that one so market it mainly as for worktops. It's essentially a similar product to the Polyx oil.
In the end I went with the Polyx as it comes in 3 different (clear) finishes. I ordered sample packs for a few quid each, from Osmo website in the Clear Satin, Clear Matt and Clear Semi Matt. I didn't want to re-finish in anything that would add orange colour back into the wood. We also have a lot of water staining and a lot of water splashing direct onto the sink area so I bought some Osmo 4006 Wood Protector as well. This you give one or two coats before the main Polyx oil, to really help protect from water. This is optional, and is does slightly darken the wood, but it's minimal imo and the wood darkens anyway a tiny bit from the Polyx.

So with the finishes. They are pretty much as you would expect:

Clear Satin = You get quite a noticeable sheen. Personally to me, it looks cheap. When I walk into our kitchen and it's mildly sunny out the back, you get a lot of glare off the worktop with this, and it looks like a cheaper varnish. However, my wife and son said they preferred it to look at up close as it adds a bit more colour and life to the wood.

Clear Matt = It will add a tiny bit of darkness/colour/vibrancy into the wood, but otherwise very natural and the closest to just bare wood as you will get.

Clear Semi-Matt = A middle ground between the two but more towards matt. A very, very slight sheen and a bit more vibrancy in the wood compared to the full matt in the samples I tried.

So I've gone with semi-matt. Haven't started fully yet as trying to work out a good order as decorating the whole kitchen as well anyway.
 
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Soldato
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Thanks @jaybee really helpful and gives me something to go on, pretty sure I went with clear matt last time, as we did not want to change anything to do with the colour, still have the old tin in the garage to double check.
 
Soldato
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I will be using Osmo again as that is what I used the first time around, thanks for the advice, will have to see if any mates have a belt sander, if not have a normal flat one

God, don't use a belt sander. Not unless you want to ruin them, lol.

Belt sanders are something you use if you have plenty of experience with them, otherwise you are more likely to wreck your wood. Besides, you can't get close to the wall with a belt sander.

Use a random orbital.

It is difficult to say what grit you should start with, because it depends on the marks you want to remove. But bear in mind that the more you remove, the less likely you are to get the surface flat. Generally I would suggest cleaning marks but not necessarily trying to sand the entire worktop down to that level. Use a bit of 120 sandpaper to clean then just sand the entire worktop. I certainly would not start with 80 grit. That will mark the wood and you will be there forever. I suppose if you are patient... But I would start with a 120 and if it's not getting where you need then move to 100 and so on. Once you find the right grit then do them all and work back down to 180.
You might want to get ceramic grit paper so you aren't replacing discs so often.

Osmo is excellent.
 
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Soldato
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chopping board is usually end grain though, compared to worksurface,

as spellowhouse said I'd also be checking type of grit paper will be dispersing debris quickly corundrum ? have never tried ceramic.
 
Associate
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Sheet sander connected to an extractor here, then rustin danish oil applied with a lint free cloth.


Looks good when its freshly done.

 
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Soldato
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9 Mar 2003
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Random orbital or sheet sander here (these are normally considered orbital sanders also, just without the random).

Personally, if the worktop has been previous finished I would’t go lower than 120 unless you really need to, you don’t want to take off too much material or it won’t be flat. Basically, you want to sand it as little as possible and re-oil.
 
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