1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

[dlockers]

Hi folks,

Whilst the bathroom job ticks over I want to start planning the summer house. A few things I want to consider is whether this'll ding me later on, if I ever do get the funds to build a side extension.

Current plot:

Proposed plot:

Plot mesaurements:

The first job will be to empty the garden shed and knock it down, visible here when I replaced the fence. As you can see there is so weak as **** concrete there, but the shed itself was laid on the leftover concrete from the garage pad pour (I imagine!) so is pretty chunky. I can the kango though....

Anyone have any experience or thoughts to share? I was considering the Oakwood Garden Room rod method to avoid having to do a mega concrete pour, but I think that is TBC based on rod pricing versus concrete! The pad that is partially there at the moment needs to go.

An alternative is just putting it on brick pillars/concrete pads.

Anyway, more of a build log..........watch this space.

 

[964rs]

Wow you really are a workaholic.

All i can help with is i believe you can build on a maximum of 50% of your plot so you still have a good chunk left.
That's not saying you would get permission to do that but that's the total that could be allowed

 

[FNG]

I used ground screws for a cabin I had built at the bottom of my garden. They were put in by a team. I think they were no cheaper than a concrete base, but I liked the idea of having less concrete in the garden, and it saved getting a massive pump or barrowing the stuff up the garden!

 

[Buffman]

I used ground screws for a cabin I had built at the bottom of my garden. They were put in by a team. I think they were no cheaper than a concrete base, but I liked the idea of having less concrete in the garden, and it saved getting a massive pump or barrowing the stuff up the garden!

How much were they/how big was the cabin?

Interested in this thread and considering similar for my garden

 

[dlockers]

Wow you really are a workaholic.

All i can help with is i believe you can build on a maximum of 50% of your plot so you still have a good chunk left.
That's not saying you would get permission to do that but that's the total that could be allowed

I can't decipher whether the 50% is total plot or 50% of existing dwelling (curtilage?). I need to do some research. The workshop had planning permission; I am hoping to keep the garden room under 30sqm and 1m from boundary to avoid planning.

I used ground screws for a cabin I had built at the bottom of my garden. They were put in by a team. I think they were no cheaper than a concrete base, but I liked the idea of having less concrete in the garden, and it saved getting a massive pump or barrowing the stuff up the garden!

I love the idea of them. Did they go through clay? The cost is what puts me off as rods/concrete pillars I can do myself.

 

[FNG]

They were just over 3k fitted. They are every 1.5m, 75mm x 1200mm sized screws. I had to dig out and level the ground but they can cope with a slope; I think they could cope with max of 150mm between lowest and highest, but it may have been more.

The cabin is about 5.7m x 4.3m and is pitched roof, 4m to the ridge. It sits 2m from any boundary so could be built without PP.

 

[FNG]

I can't decipher whether the 50% is total plot or 50% of existing dwelling (curtilage?). I need to do some research. The workshop had planning permission; I am hoping to keep the garden room under 30sqm and 1m from boundary to avoid planning.


I love the idea of them. Did they go through clay? The cost is what puts me off as rods/concrete pillars I can do myself.

Yes they went into heavy clay ground. The only thing that thwarted one was a root from an old tree (a 30m+ conifer) that directly in line with where one needed to go, but it was trivial to offset it a bit.

 

[FNG]

I can't decipher whether the 50% is total plot or 50% of existing dwelling (curtilage?). I need to do some research. The workshop had planning permission; I am hoping to keep the garden room under 30sqm and 1m from boundary to avoid planning.

It is 50% of (your entire plot - the amount taken up by your house).

 

[964rs]

I can't decipher whether the 50% is total plot or 50% of existing dwelling (curtilage?). I need to do some research. The workshop had planning permission; I am hoping to keep the garden room under 30sqm and 1m from boundary to avoid planning.


I love the idea of them. Did they go through clay? The cost is what puts me off as rods/concrete pillars I can do myself.

I think both 50% of plot relating to other buildings and 50% of original dwelling when built relating to attached extensions might be the case.

You can buy those ground screws and the thing to screw them in. I have seen them on ebay before

 

[200sols]

Not considering DIY?

 

[dlockers]

They were just over 3k fitted. They are every 1.5m, 75mm x 1200mm sized screws. I had to dig out and level the ground but they can cope with a slope; I think they could cope with max of 150mm between lowest and highest, but it may have been more.

The cabin is about 5.7m x 4.3m and is pitched roof, 4m to the ridge. It sits 2m from any boundary so could be built without PP.

Oof. I'm going for 3kish to be water tight if I can. That excluded doors and windows but hoping I can get lucky on eBay/marketplace with a misorder.


What's your interior layout like? I want to maximize space but anything over what I'm proposing needs a flitch beam, although my.plan means I may still need a garden shed...

I think both 50% of plot relating to other buildings and 50% of original dwelling when built relating to attached extensions might be the case.

You can buy those ground screws and the thing to screw them in. I have seen them on ebay before

Ah that's probably what I'm missing.

Not considering DIY?

100% DIY.

 

[FNG]

Oof. I'm going for 3kish to be water tight if I can. That excluded doors and windows but hoping I can get lucky on eBay/marketplace with a misorder.


What's your interior layout like? I want to maximize space but anything over what I'm proposing needs a flitch beam, although my.plan means I may still need a garden shed...

Ah that's probably what I'm missing.


100% DIY.

I have a pitch roof which is open on the inside, with the ridge beam supported by 2 king posts every third of the length and then the two gable ends. I have a storage mezzanine at one end (and a cargo net floor) other wise it is completely open plan. All built in timber, with sides clad in charred Siberian larch and plastic composite slates on the roof. It also has 3 veluxes in and a double door and windows on the front. I did not build it as I was constrained by time, but there is nothing overly complicated about such a building. Having a couple of experienced joiners really helped though as other than the basic size and window placements etc, we made it up as we went; especially supporting the roof! It was not cheap (I think all in it came in at about 40k), but 7k of that was just the cladding (never mind the endless labour drilling and screwing all the holes to fit it!). I am really happy with it, but it was a luxury. The labour was at cost as I fitted in with my builder and used his guys when they didn't have any of his work to do, so basically paid their wages. However the materials alone were really expensive. You don't quite appreciate how much wood goes into something that size until it starts to get built. The ground screws, flooring joists, then the framing, then the osb cladding then the wrap then the battoning for the cladding and roof, then the counter battoning, the cladding, the roofing tiles. Then inside the insulation in walls and floors, insulated plaster board on top for the roof and plastering. The deliveries just kept coming!

 

[dlockers]

Legend thank you sir!

 

[roccles]

If you go for blocks might worth checking out the Ali Dymock series on YouTube as he used this method.

Garden Room Workshop: Part 4. Setting out & Foundations

Find the full series playlist here: https://bit.ly/2BiLSyCPart 4 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house...

www.youtube.com

I am also in the planning stages of a a garden office workshop and think I will use ground screws or Oakwoods rod method as I have quite a steep slope to deal with. If the ground was flatter I think I would just go with the 7N dense concrete blocks that Ali Dymocks used in his videos.

Although I am also planned a shed build which may come before the office and will definitely use blocks for this.

 

[dlockers]

Started to put a dent in the borders and thought I'd just reflect on the space for a minute. There is about 10m from the hedge to the fence, so even with a 4m span I have tonnes of space. I think job one is to make a fire pit top right so I can clear the waste easier than the incinerator - and then start to throw the shed on there.

I think 4m is starting to push it for spans so I may want to fitch beam it...

Is burning legit the shed legit? Lol

I wonder if that pad is any good, too...

 

[dlockers]

Had a quick think on layout. The profound thought given I can afford the space is to bring it forwards from the rear fence by about 2m instead of the mandatory 1M. I can then put the shed door on the rear, freeing up the front to be a bit more of a feature and giving me a nook with a window for my desk that faces the decking. It also means I'm not restricted in the future on an additional structure e.g. pergola for a hot tub or something.

I think I'll need to start clearing space now otherwise I'll be exhausted by the time the good weather comes lol.

 

[danlightbulb]

Nice size, what's your plans for use of the main space?

 

[dlockers]

Nice size, what's your plans for use of the main space?

Tbc. I have the 13mx3m workshop which may become a proper workshop/garage once the junk is relocated to the attic. So this could be a separate living space/TV/playroom. It could also be a gym itself. No real plan! The main objective is the office itself tbh.

 

[dlockers]

Build pack arrived today -- I have the 7x4 and the 6x3.5m to work from. I just need to cost up the effort (basically the rods count) and see if the extra 500mm is worth it lol.

 

[94JDH]

Build pack arrived today -- I have the 7x4 and the 6x3.5m to work from. I just need to cost up the effort (basically the rods count) and see if the extra 500mm is worth it lol.

Here's one I DIY'ed around 5 years ago:

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