Quick question re. drilling holes in PC cupboard for fans

Soldato
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With a temperature sensor
I wonder how that works does it need software to control it
I did some very quick research and the temp sensor was a 3-pin which apparently is old-style and a little basic. So I went for the pwm 4-pin version. So the mobo just controls it. Brings me to
Yeah those rubber fan connectors are great
I was about to wax lyrical about the fact I ordered this stuff at 10pm last night and it just turned up at 8.3pm - but the rubber screws didn't turn up! Well they sent the wrong package, I've got some motherboard power adapter/splitter with the wrong label on. Argh! So it looks like I need to do another emergency dash to Wickes to get screws and rubber washers. :rolleyes:

Also, which way does the Arctic P12 blow? The guide is err.. useless https://support.arctic.de/p12-pwm
 
Soldato
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Is the back wall of that cupboard structural?
If not, why not just remove the entire panel?

That's what I did with a solid oak desk for my PC, and it has worked a charm.
 
Soldato
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As mickyflinn said
Usually the pretty side is visible when pushing
Air away from you

From your link they push air away
From the side with stylised letter A on there
Usually I just look at the blades to determine
Those are steeply pitched but can still tell
 
Soldato
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Thanks guys. They do have a very subtle arrow down the side. Helps to read the manual properly…

I’m still trying to cut my holes. Round = ok with hole saw. Now I decided on square to mount the fan flush.. Quite hard going with a hand saw that you can’t get “in” the hole.

Yet another example of a job taking 10x longer because I have no tools! :(
 
Soldato
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I have an old tool somewhere
Let's you put a hacksaw or other blade into
The handle then tighten a screw to hold the blade in
Very useful for places where the frame
Of the saw impedes what you're trying to cut
 
Soldato
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Ok guys so the holes got drilled and the fan installed, as below. Pretty pleased with the results;

mG1xbQ0.jpeg


3XP0Qwe.jpeg


The fan is not plugged in yet though, I don't have a spare 3/4-pin header on my mobo. So just checking are these the right cables to buy?

upHere 4PIN PWM Fan Power Extension Cable Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter 1 to 4 Converter for Computer Cooling Fan Cable,FH-4
and
upHere 4pin PWM Fan Splitter Cable 5packs Power Extension Cable Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided for Computer Cooling Fan Cable,FH1-5

I don't need a 1-4 splitter but I figure I'll be using 2 straight from the outset (existing case fan, plus new fan) then leaves options open for an intake fan on the cupboard if I find that's necessary. Then the other extension cable just to give me leeway when pulling out the PC.

I was looking for a PCI panel with 4-pin plugs on to make things neater, but couldn't find one. Guess I can put up with just feeding the cables through the spare slots.

EDIT: Actually a splitter like this would be neater I think;
GeekerChip 4-pin PWM fan hub, 4-pin connector for CPU fan PC fan hub, 4 PIN PWM fan splitter cable , Suitable for computer PC fan cable
 
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Don
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Rather than keep posting products that OcUK don't stock, why not actually look here, as OcUK have a huge range of options:


E.g. some of the options:


My basket at OcUK:

Total: £25.84 (includes delivery: £3.99)​
 
Man of Honour
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I would have put a 200mm fan there and run it at less than 500rpm which would be totally silent but still shifting a decent amount of air. The small size holesaws are rubbish for computer cases but you can get individual ones that go up to 154mm. I use a Jigsaw and that's what I used to cut the 200mm holes out of my modular desk case. I would power the fans either from a cheap fan controller like the Zalman one with a rotary knob to control the speed or a fan hub that's then plugged into the motherboard and control the fans using the settings in the motherboards bios.
 
Soldato
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Even something like this might be helpful, to allow you manual control of the cupboard fans, and just use power connection from the PC:

My basket at OcUK:

Total: £25.94 (includes delivery: £3.99)​
Thats a handy little device
Bit expensive though
Me being me I would just shove a potentiometer
Onto the cable
 
Soldato
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Rather than keep posting products that OcUK don't stock, why not actually look here, as OcUK have a huge range of options:
Do I get free Saturday shipping as a forum member? ;)

Seriously though, apologies for some reason I thought this would be filed under 'weird cable options' that OcUK possibly wouldn't offer. I always think of you guys for the bigger purchases :heart:
 
Don
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Do I get free Saturday shipping as a forum member? ;)
Unfortunately not, which often drives all of us to buy from other places :)

Seriously though, apologies for some reason I thought this would be filed under 'weird cable options' that OcUK possibly wouldn't offer. I always think of you guys for the bigger purchases :heart:
No worries - just please bear it in mind - ideally link or mention OcUK products, even if you unfortunately end up having to buy a similar alternative elsewhere. :)
 
Associate
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Removing the rear panel altogether not an option? The main issue is the lack of an active intake, in my humble opinion. If you have intake, just the opening at the rear would perform better, but that would trash the looks of your setup, adding intakes.
Adding only exhaust, you’re creating pressure, as air to be exhausted will come from every opening at the front of the cabinet. Maybe not as efficient, but will.
If thermals ever become an issue in future setup, a Mora behind those cabinets should do.
 
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Soldato
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Removing the rear panel altogether not an option? The main issue is the lack of an active intake, in my humble opinion.
I don’t think it can be removed. I’m going to see how well the rear fan works on its own. If it’s trash, I wouldn’t mind adding an intake in the front right like the guy did in my original link. I have the same paint colour as the cabinet with which I could paint a grill and make it really subtle. It wouldn’t be noticeable down at my feet.
 
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